![]() ![]() The method he describes is one of several ways to try to make the best of this situation. ![]() I think that's what Geoff is referring to. Sometimes you have an situation where the image doesn't exceed the dynamic range of the sensor but where parts of the image are squished into the top or bottom of the histogram. Since you are new to this, I think it's worth pointing out a distinction. Maybe if you post a few examples we can have a go with them and run through the editing methods in more detail. ![]() That method isn't true HDR but it will often produce an acceptable substitute.Ĭhanging a sky, etc, is another alternative way of creating a similar result although the success rate tends to depend on the actual scenes and your degree of area selecting skill Then create one or more copies (eg end up with 3 layers) and edit them to suit the more extreme ends of the required range. Take one shot which is in the middle area of the required exposure range and do some basic editing to suit the mid range. ![]() There is another method which I frequently use when movement cannot be avoided. However this can sometimes be overcome if the movement area is kept in synch with the area directly behind which is where hand editing of masks is so useful. The problem comes with any subject movement between shots. I have found that I can do this with hand held shooting, providing there is a bit of overlap for trimming any slight edge misalignment.Įditing is simply stacking the shots as layers then using an auto alignment setting before applying the masks and editing in various methods. Ideally, you will be able to vary the amount of exposure difference between the shots. I do a lot of exposure merging and like Manfred I prefer to do the merge manually using layers and masks which I edited in various ways.Ĭan you set your camera to automatically shoot a number of bracketed exposures? Usually 3 but it can be 5 shots. It does not look like this is what you are trying to do. My preferred approach is to hand blend these images in Photoshop, but that is generally viewed as an advanced technique.įocus stacking is a completely different technique where the image is taken with the focus set to different points in the scene to end up with an image that it totally in focus from the closest to the farthest element in the scene. People like this approach because the output tends to look a lot more natural. You can also get a plug-in for Lightroom called LR/Enfuse that works slightly differently than HDR. Ideally you will shoot from a sturdy tripod, but you are correct, there is autoalign functionality in the software that can do this. There are tons of online tutorials on this. There are a number of proprietary programs that do this Photomatix is probably the most popular and has more functionality than Photoshop / Lightroom. The process is technically called "tone mapping". Lightroom and Photoshop / Adobe Camera Raw do have the capability to merge two or more images, done at different exposures, in the way you describe. It does not sound like you are actually looking at focus stacking, but rather a way of dealing with a high dynamic range image (HDRI). ![]()
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